Frequently Asked Questions
If you live a home built prior to 1950, chances are you have what’s known as knob-and-tube wiring. Electricians no longer use this method to wire new houses, and it’s widely believed to pose a hidden risk to homeowners.
Knob-and-tube (K&T) wiring was method of wiring used in the United States from the 1880s to the late 1930s. Many pros continued to use this method through the 1950s, ’60s and even ’70s for new home construction. Now, many homeowners looking to upgrade their electrical system or complete a renovation are discovering “hidden” knob-and-tube wiring in their home and wondering how to proceed.
Knob-and-tube wiring gets its name from the ceramic knobs used to hold wires in place and ceramic tubes that act as protective casings for wires running through wall studs or floor joists. Instead of the three wires found in modern electrical installations, K&T wiring has only two: a black (hot) wire and a white (neutral) wire. This means there is no ground wire in the system for excess charge or in the event of a short.
As a result, outlets in a knob-and-tube home will have two prongs, not three, and won’t support ground fault circuit interrupters (GFCIs). In addition, the hot and neutral wires in a K&T setup are run and sheathed separately and approximately an inch apart, rather than being bundled together as with new wiring. Most knob and tube installations are restricted to a 60-amp service. Problems with knob-and-tube wiring
If a K&T system is intact and working, it poses no immediate risk to you and your family. Problems often arise, however, because of the age of the installation or modifications made to the electric system by a previous owner or unscrupulous electrician.
One of the most common problems with this kind of wiring is its insulation, which is made of rubber instead of plastic. Over time, the rubber degrades, exposing bare wires to air and moisture, in turn increasing the chance of a short or a fire.
Extra circuits are also a problem because basic installations only allow for 12 circuits in a home. Often, homeowners who needed extra circuits would pay contractors to add new circuits at the panel or simply splice into an existing wire. Both of these modifications run the risk of overloading the system.
You also need to watch for older homes with renovations. A popular electrical scam making the rounds involves attaching new wiring to a switch or socket, which is then checked by a home inspector who declares the house free of K&T. In fact, the new wiring only runs the height of the wall and connects to knob and tube in the ceiling.
Knob-and-tube wiring also poses a problem for insurance companies. Some demand higher premiums from customers with this kind of wiring in their homes, while other companies refuse to insure homeowners at all until the wiring is changed.
So, is K&T wiring safe? Not exactly. The risk of faults and fires, coupled with difficulty finding home insurance makes replacement your best option. If you want to remove K&T from your home, give us a call for a free quote.
Both devices, either breaker or fuse, are designed to trip (turn off) in the event of an electrical overload, i.e. 20Amps of electrical load on a 15Amp circuit would cause a trip. The only difference is that a breaker is mechanical and may be reset. Whereas, a fuse is one time only and must be replaced.
Please Note: Modern breakers are much more efficient and offer greater levels of protection.
The black button is a test button and when pressed, should deactivate the outlet and any other outlet fed from it – Indicating a properly functioning device.
The red button is the re-set button that you depress to reactivate the outlet or outlets in the event of deactivation resulting from a fault.
Both devices, either breaker or fuse, are designed to trip (turn off) in the event of an electrical overload, i.e. 20Amps of electrical load on a 15Amp circuit would cause a trip. The only difference is that a breaker is mechanical and may be reset. Whereas, a fuse is one time only and must be replaced.
Please Note: Modern breakers are much more efficient and offer greater levels of protection.
This could mean one of two things.
- An intermittent chirp is probably an indication of a defective smoke detector.
- A consistent chirp is probably an indication of a low battery condition and the smoke detector requires a new battery.
This is usually caused by several factors.
- Use of non-brand named bulbs.
- Larger wattage bulbs, which cause excessive heat build-up shorting the life of the bulb.
- Power Surges.
Because there are no ducts, ductless systems lose less than 5% cooling vs. up to 40% for traditional forced-air systems. Increased efficiencies up to 27.2-SEER mean lower utility bills. Several models are even Energy Star Qualified, meaning they save you on your utility bill.
Individual Zoning
Why pay to heat or cool areas that no one is occupying? Individual zoning allows you to heat or cool the areas you want, and not the areas that are unoccupied.